
Don't get me wrong: Presents are great. But for some of us, the giving season is just as much about the delicious food we enjoy at holiday dinners and parties as it is about finding something nice in your stocking. Don't believe it? Consider the role edible goodies play in some of America's most beloved Christmas movies.
Would Clark Griswold sharing an eggnog with cousin Eddie in "National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation" be as funny if the pair were drinking from plain coffee cups instead of those moose-eared glass mugs? And how about the mulled wine Mary Bailey asks Mr. Martini to serve to the crowd of townspeople in her living room at the end of "It's a Wonderful Life"? Doesn't that make you want to run to the kitchen and toss some nutmeg, cinnamon and cut-up fruit into a simmering pot of zinfandel and throw a big neighborhood party?
My kids, on the other hand, laugh every time "Elf's" Buddy drowns a plate of spaghetti in maple syrup, no matter how many times they see it (and believe me, it's been plenty).
Of all holiday movie foods we've been treated to over the years, though, my personal favorite is the rare Who-roast-beast with which the Grinch has a love-hate relationship in "How the Grinch Stole Christmas." At first, we learn this annual feast is something the bitter cave-dweller "couldn't stand in the least." But after his revelation that Christmas doesn't come from a store, and he whizzes back down the mountain with the presents, trees and cans of Who-hash he stole the night before, we find him carving the beast with his dog, Max, and the equally adoring Cindy Lou-Who at his side.
I know it's just an animated picture, but man! Those thick slices of meat (is it prime rib, or maybe a turkey, seeing it has feet?) always make me lick my lips. As the Whos down in Who-ville would sing:
Fah who foraze! Dah who doraze!
Welcome Christmas! Christmas Day!
Here, we set the table for a holiday-movie dinner that incorporates some of the most famous dishes from our favorite Christmas movies. You probably wouldn't want to serve them all at once, but we're guessing at least one will inspire you to get busy in the kitchen.
P.S. We considered including a recipe for the "Chinese turkey" Ralphie and his family enjoy at the end of "A Christmas Story," after the Bumpus hounds tear through their kitchen and make off with the family bird. But Peking Duck, it turns out, is a far too involved recipe for the novice cook during the holidays (you have to first "puff" the duck with boiling water, then paint it with a corn syrup mixture and hang it to dry for four hours before roasting it). So instead, we're suggesting you follow the Parkers' lead and head to your favorite Chinese restaurant.
PG tested
Clarence the Angel ponders ordering this fruity holiday punch at Nick's bar in "It's a Wonderful Life." But as Nick makes clear (with his left fist), that's not gonna fly: "Look, mister, we serve hard drinks in here for men who want to get drunk fast. And we don't need any characters around to give the joint atmosphere!"
Stick oranges full of cloves and bake in oven until they soften, 20 to 30 minutes at 350. Place oranges in a punch bowl, pour over them warmed rum and granulated sugar to taste. With a long match, set fire to the rum, and after a few moments add cider slowly to extinguish flame. Stir in cinnamon and nutmeg, and keep mixture warm, simmering on stovetop.
Serves a crowd.
PG tested
No family gathering seems complete without this quintessential spiked egg drink. In "National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation," Chevy Chase serves it in glass "moose" mugs.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat egg yolks until they lighten in color. Gradually add the 1/3 cup sugar and continue to beat until it is completely dissolved. Add the milk, cream, bourbon and nutmeg and stir to combine.
Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat to soft peaks. With the mixer still running gradually add the 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form.
Whisk the egg whites into the mixture. Chill and serve.
Note: For cooked eggnog, follow procedure below.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg yolks until they lighten in color. Gradually add the 1/3 cup sugar and continue to beat until it is completely dissolved. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, over high heat, combine the milk, heavy cream and nutmeg and bring just to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and gradually temper the hot mixture into the egg and sugar mixture. Then return everything to the pot and cook until the mixture reaches 160 degrees. Remove from the heat, stir in the bourbon, pour into a medium mixing bowl, and set in the refrigerator to chill.
In a medium mixing bowl, beat the egg whites to soft peaks. With the mixer running gradually add the 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Whisk the egg whites into the chilled mixture.
Serves 6 to 8.
-- Alton Brown, Food Network
PG tested
The closing scene of "How the Grinch Stole Christmas" finds the Green One carving Who-ville's giant roast beast. We're not sure what kind of meat the beast might be, but we're guessing a standing beef rib roast -- a traditional holiday meal in many homes -- will do.
Rub the roast all over with oil. Sprinkle with black pepper and the thyme, rubbing them into the meat. Place the roast, fat side up, on a wire cake rack set in a large cast-iron frying pan.
Place a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500 degrees. Roast the beef for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 325 degrees. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat (but not touching the bone) registers 130 degrees for medium-rare, about 2 hours longer. Transfer the roast to a carving board, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while making the Yorkshire pudding.
While meat is roasting, make sauce. In a blender, combine the cream and parsley and puree until smooth. Transfer to a deep bowl, add the creme fraiche and beat with a balloon whisk until soft peaks form. Whisk in the horseradish. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Cover and refrigerate.
To make Yorkshire pudding: Raise oven temperature to 425 degrees. Spoon off all but about 3 tablespoons of fat from the frying pan. Preheat the pan in oven and prepare the batter: In a bowl, combine flour and salt and stir to blend. Make a well in the center, add milk and whisk until blended. Add eggs and whisk until well blended and bubbly. Pour batter into the hot frying pan and bake for 10 minutes. If the pudding is not rising evenly, rotate the pan. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 10 minutes longer.
If not carving the roast at the table, slice beef a few minutes before pudding is done and arrange it on a warmed platter. Whisk sauce a few times and spoon into a sauceboat. Serve beef, sauce and Yorkshire pudding in its pan immediately, as the pudding will deflate quickly.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
-- by Carolyn Miller in "The Williams-Sonoma Cookbook" (Free Press, 2008, $34.95)
PG tested
Funny as it seems, the famous plum pudding Mrs. Cratchit makes for her family in "A Christmas Carol" isn't made of plums at all, but raisins.
A plum pudding develops its full flavor when made at least a week ahead. Count on 6 hours for the initial, almost unattended steaming, and 2 hours to reheat before serving. Not that patient? You can also microwave the pudding.
Toss the bread crumbs in a large mixing bowl with the raisins, sugar and spices. Then toss with the melted butter, and finally with the rest of the ingredients, except, of course, the holly and Zabaglione Sauce. Taste carefully for seasoning, adding more spices if needed.
To microwave the pudding: Butter the dish you are cooking the pudding in, then cover the bottom of the dish with a buttered piece of waxed paper. Pour in batter. Cover dish with plastic wrap and pierce the plastic with a knife in several places. Cook at "defrost" (low speed) for 30 minutes. If your microwave oven does not have a carousel that turns the dish during cooking, stop the process several times during the cooking and rotate the dish manually. Finally, cook at 5 minutes on "bake" (high speed). Let pudding set for a few minutes before unmolding. The pudding is ready when it is firm to the touch. The microwaved plum pudding is somewhat paler than its steamed counterpart.
To steam pudding: Use a special pan made for this purpose. You must have a container with a very tight lid on it that will stay sealed throughout the cooking. Pack pudding mixture into container; cover with a round of waxed paper and the lid. Set container on the steaming contraption in the kettle, and add enough water to come a third of the way up the sides of the container. Cover kettle tightly; bring to the simmer, and let steam about 6 hours. Warning: Check the kettle now and then to be sure the water hasn't boiled off!
When is it done? When it is a dark walnut-brown color and fairly firm to the touch. Let the pudding cool in its container. Store it in a cool wine cellar or in the refrigerator. Ahead-of-time note: Pudding will keep nicely for several months. Resteaming: A good 2 hours before you plan to serve, resteam the pudding -- it must be quite warm indeed for successful flaming. Unmold onto a hot serving platter and decorate, if you wish, with sprigs of holly.
Flaming and serving: Pour the hot rum or whiskey around the pudding. Either ignite it in the kitchen and rapidly bring it forth, or flame it at the table. Serve the following Zabaglione Sauce separately.
Serves 8 to 12.
Zabaglione Sauce
Whisk all the ingredients together for 1 minute in a stainless saucepan. Then whisk over moderately low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the sauce becomes thick, foamy and warm to your finger. Do not bring it to the simmer and scramble the eggs, but you must heat it enough for it to thicken. Serve warm or cold. Ahead-of-time note: The sauce will remain foamy for 20 to 30 minutes, and if it separates simply beat it briefly over heat. If you wish to reform the sauce, whisk in a stiffly beaten egg white.
-- "The Way to Cook" by Julia Child (Knopf, 1993)